Johannesburg Art Gallery... how about that.

I, the self proclaimed Jozi tourist, decided that visiting the Apartheid Museum might have worked out a bit much so soon after visiting Constitution Hill, so decided to do something (what I thought would be) a bit 'happier...

Welcome the Johannesburg Art Gallery
I feel like I'm really supposed to love this gallery, but somehow the only emotions that will attach to this place is of some fondness, some disappointment, sprinkled with a few adrenaline drops of arriving, staying and leaving safely.

Like a grown up revisiting a childhood hang out I felt sure that this place used to much bigger than now, maybe blame my Lourve in Paris visit for this. Having said that, I think the gallery is a nice size, not overwhelming like the Lourve, where after the first 40 min your eyes just start glazing over anyway.

The gallery is right next to Joubert Park, with a bit of sketchy reputation.. (well that and the entire Braamfontein area) all the more reason to feel proud of yourself for travelling through such obstructions in the quest of appreciating fine art. Good on you... good on me for going despite being a little freaked out.

The gallery has an almost adorable collection of famous Artist's work, nothing you've ever seen on Cezanne and Dali postcards, but hey, it's here and it's cool in that way. They also have work by Rodin, Van Gogh and Monet. Cool right?

Why I think it's cool and reasons to go:

-It's free, totally free... budget travellers rejoice!

... o you need more reasons than that?? okay

-the Dali lobster phone
-Some really impressive South African Artist art that will make you feel all proud and stuff
These paintings are made from old plastic bags, no kidding.
-Changing Art, in the sense that 90% of their collection is in storage so you can see something different every time.

-Chances are very good you'll have the entire gallery to yourself.

-I like the building, parts of it was built in the early 1900's... so (don't freak out Belinda) it's historically cool.
-Art is good for the soul


And the not so cool part:

-It's a scary part of the city... (traffic rules don't apply here by the way)

-At the time of this going online the temporary exhibition was about sexual harassment and sexual offenders... not exactly the happy escape I wanted.

-A little depressing that no else ventures out here.

In Matric we had to analyse this painting in our final paper, I remember using the word macabre a lot... macabre what a art word, in fact I struggle to describe most art any other way. This is however one of my favourite paintings in the gallery.

Speaking of macabre...
This isn't exactly part of the exhibitions, I being super intelligent (spells intelligent wrong) think it's for schoolkids to do some art after they've seen the exhibitions. But what would stop somebody from calling this art? this table that is... Some guy named Andy called a bunch of Campbell soup tins art and he was right, wasn't he?
I've read somewhere that the gallery might be moved to Newtown (on the Jozi tourist list!), it's sad that they will loose the building but it might be the best.
Then once again the art can fit in with other arty things like jazz and cool people, all this is apparently in Newtown, I'm still to go see for myself.
..Brilliant tips:
-Make sure you know exactly where you're going, not a fun place to drive around in circles
-The parking may look closed but there is a guard on duty.
-Give about one to two hours, and again go in the early afternoon to avoid city traffic.
-Closed on Mondays

Guest post from a real long term tourist...

When I started this blog a few short months ago my gorgeous previous roommate sent me this message below about where she found the joy in Jo'burg. She's originally from and now back in Cape Town (grrrr...) ((I say grrrr because I want to move there one day when I'm big)). She spent a year and half working in Jo'burg where she had the delightful delight of living with yours truly for a good portion of that year and a half... as if that's not awesome enough right, right Carlene?? .. Uhm.

I found her message so beautifully written, capturing a few Jozi gems as she reminiscences about her time up here. It is however in Afrikaans which limits the audience this post around.

...sorry random Russian and English speaking reader for not translating this for you. For the rest of you please welcome and enjoy my first guest post.

My jaar en 'n half in jo(y)burg; ek mis die groen, die stad is so ryk aan die mooiste en digste bome, as mens van hoog kyk lyk dit soos 'n feetjie woud, en soms vergeet dat die stad daar binne wegkruip, én die mooiste ooitste - die persblommetjies van die jacarandas wat 'pop' as jy oor hul ry. Dan die weer in die somer: die groot reendruppels se reuk op die warm teer, die geluid van die blits en donderweer wat ek skeitbang voor was aan die begin, maar wat ek nou so mis. En daardie donderweerstrale lyk amazing in tussen die wolke, vol krag, en remind ons natuur is soveel groter as ons! En die mense, soveel verskeidenheid en almal het 'n storie, daar bestaan nie so iets soos clicks nie, almal ontvang jou en jy kan chat met enige iemand, alle kleure en kulture meng. Michael (my ou) en sy vriend het elke sondag 'meet a foreigner' dag gehad, ek dink dit was awesome, en dis die ding, jy kan in jozi, en nie net 'n foreigner nie, enigeiemand anders as jyself! Mis al die interessante restaurante en coffeeshops!! En daar was soveel meer goedjies wat joburg vir my joyburg gemaak het! Ek het dit dalk bietjie laat besef ja. Jy was vir 'n jaar en 'n half in vietnam, ek was in jou home town, en wou jou maar net herhinner aan van die joys wat jozi vir my gegee het.

Carlene Albertyn

Dankie Carlene! xoxo

(I did Google translate this Afrikaans/English and doesn't translate thaaat badly, but trust me the Afrikaans is better)

Constitution Hill, tourist on a mission

Even though Constitution Hill is supposedly one of the more famous historical sights to visit in Johannesburg I wasn't quite sure what to expect or what it was all about.

If you're like me and you're not sure either I'd recommend just a little bit of reading before hand (as in google it on your iphone on your way there), and be sure not to miss the 10 min orientation movie at the start of the tour. Here is the website

There were a few reasons why I wanted to go there at the start of my tourist challenge:
-It's old... I'm sure there is some explanation for a person like me simply loving old buildings and peeling paint, but that's one reason
-It has historical significance and I'm significantly fond of history, especially South African history.
-I read that it's free entry on Tuesdays... this was in fact not true anymore and was stopped just before the 2010 World Cup... clever. (Wow I'm getting really good this whole useful tips thing)
-It fits perfectly into an afternoon, give about 2 hours for the whole experience.
-and as mentioned, I didn't really know what it was all about so was curious to check it out.
What I loved about the complex is that you're pretty free to just walk around and do as you please, even though you can hire a personal tour guide. I loved that it was so empty, given that we went on a Tuesday afternoon, but I feel like that added to the eerie coolness of the whole experience.

I loved the mix of old original buildings that give you the creeps, to the newer buildings trying to incorporate historical significance and stylish African architecture. O and of course the art!

What I also loved, and this is important fellow Joburgers, is how safe I felt there, even though you're right next to Hillbrow. I think that's why most of us don't even think of going to these cool city places, because of the violent reputation. Honestly it felt safer parking my car there than at Cresta Mall.

Don't let the crime be the one thing stopping you from going.

The not so great part was that it didn't feel very user friendly, I would love to see a bit more organisation to the complex. I often had no idea where I was going, the maps and arrows around aren't wonderful.

Secondly there's a whole lot of restoration going on at the moment so I feel like I missed a good 40% of it all.
Parking also seemed like it could be a problem when there's more tourists around.

Do keep in mind when you come visit that it isn't exactly about rainbows and butterflies, it showcases a very tough and sad part of our history, so it's best to prepare to be a little depressed for a while. You'll read stories that will raise the hair on the back of your neck.
People being kept like animals in cells for not having a pass: Sucks!
Constitutional freedom in SA for over 17 years...: Rocks! Viva Democracy...


this is the entrance area (I think) this is also where the car was parked (safely!)

The doors to the constitutional court with the 27 basic constitutional rights for every South African and in every official language including sign language.
the law
an entire section is filled with art inspired by all things constitutional and unconstitutional

In one of the old cells with pictures and information of some of the former inmates. Ghandi being one of themThey make a pretty big deal about the fact that Ghandi used to stay here. Has it's own exhibition section
my attempt at taking an arty picture at a prison

The verdict: I'd recommend going, I suspect history nerds might enjoy it more, but it's worth a visit even if you're not. When: During the early afternoon (so that you miss crazy city traffic out). How much: R 30 per person. Getting there: Get onto Empire and keep going till you see the signs. eh easy enough.

Moving onto Melville then...

So the problem with the last post was; firstly it was Monday and secondly it was Monday afternoon, which greatly curbed my enthusiasm for all things Jozi. Turns out that most places of interest are closed on Mondays. So there, my first piece of truly useful information posted on a blog.

I have however found a treasure of a list to work myself down in the coming weeks from historical sites to unusual art galleries so watch this space. Some that might only seem appealing to a history nerd like me, so you'll have to deal with that. Unless you yourself are of nerd orientation in which case I hope we connect and become lifelong friends.

I also fortunately have a smoke screen in all my touristing around in the form of an extended American 'guest' which I can use. Who also happens to be great to look at.
So excuses can be made for going to places like the war/transport/apartheid/Africa museums. Excitement is!

I did however in my optimistic notions for finding Jo'burg interesting decide to go to Melville that fine Monday afternoon.

Why are you raising your eyebrow at me? I know 7th street in Melville isn't exactly a historical museum but it is on the top of the list when consulting any guide book on places to be in Jo'burg. So there.
see the tourist bus stops here, therefore it warrants as a Jozi tourist spot

I also just happen to have a favourite little restaurant in Melville so wasted no time in going anywhere else.

Ant cafe is filled to the overflow with cool and kitch things that warms the heart of any hipster young and old. Along with some background music from 60's rock to Karoo classics this place is unique.

And here with yet another useful tip (nogal), visit Ant cafe on a Monday to enjoy their R40 on any pizza deal.

There's not much street cafe culture in Jozi so finding spots like 7th Street in Old Melville feels like a touristy thing to do. There's also second hand book stores, antique and vintage style shops and countless other bars/ restaurants and cafes to choose from. It's going to be cliche and I'm going to say it anyway... but there really is something for everyone.
(that's apart from parking now)

window display at Reminiscence
inside Ant cafe, there's a lovely outside area to the back too by the way
uhm... erotic plant over the weekend... really??

Challenge

I'm so stuck for words today.

Not only words, but sentences and paragraphs and ideas and topics about the Joy of Jo'burg.

The problem is that 2 years in Vietnam makes for pretty high standards for topics in blogging.. or just in my own mind.

Already and (sigh) again I feel such an itch to be travelling. These blogs I follow on the side don't help much, read them by the way! They all look like the kind of blogs this one wants to be when it grows up...

So I have resolved to become a tourist in Jo'burg... it's easy enough to take on such an identity in the rest of my gorgeous country, but for some reason not here...

Challenge created, challenge accepted.

Okay I'm off now to go visit some museum or something... (and take pictures of jacarandas cause that's a joy in Jo'burg for sure)

Thanks goodness I'm not trying to this in Pretoria.... Challenge acce..... hold on, take it easy now, don't let me hurt myself here.

Dear Tourist...

Firstly, sorry about the boring first 75% of your trip from O.R Tambo International to the Kruger National Park.

I bet you wish it looked like this:

or this:

I sure wish it looked like this:

but instead you get this:

and this:

But all that boredom after a 16 hour flight and 6 hour drive will be worth it, because you'll end up here:

and find things like this:

and see this, if you're super lucky...

or even this.
Why not capture the next You Tube sensation with your iphone while you're here. Try however to find something different and original in the Park now that we've all seen the baby buffalo survive the lion and crocodile.
Ooo I have a great suggestion... how about filming something like 'South African grandma feeds Australian rugby supporter to a badger during a sunset saffari just outside Lower Sabi'... just a thought.

We hope you have the best time ever!

Kind Regards

a Saffa